On a related note CE1 cars with MFA will have connections for the outside temp and oil temp sensor separate to the fusebox which you'll want to keep. Either way this wire is earthed to the side of the head, but for neatness you can earth it inside the car if you like. CE1 cars this is a brown/white wire with a female spade, for CE2 cars this is a brown/white wire in G1/5. If its a GTI or MK3 there is an extra earth wire from the dash which you'll need to keep.
#Brake light switch wiring harness plus
If you have terminal removal tools it can be useful to pop pins out of the housings rather than snip the wires, plus make a judgement call on the condition of your wiring if its all grotty you may have to chop it back a bit further till you get to nice fresh copper. Keep all the oil and coolant wires as well as the wiper wiring. Ideally you want to get the same type as fitted to your car, otherwise you'll have a lot of faffing ahead of you.įirst of all strip your old loom of all of its insulation/tape, you'll want to keep all the wires to the fusebox but you can chop off all the engine specific plugs at the other end. For MK3 Golf apart from the MFA wiring you can start from any MK3 loom, but note is there are 2 types of loom on the MK3! You have the early type where the engine and lighting looms are separate and the later looms where its all bundled together. If you have a CE1 MK2 Golf try to get a digifant engine loom, this is the easiest base to start from. In fact if you start with a carb loom it actually makes your life a little easier as it has an extra pin you will need later which the kjet GTI looms don't have! If you have a MK2 Golf the above applies, except if you want the MFA to work start with a GTI loom of some kind as the wiring for this is part of the engine loom. If you have a MK1 Golf you can use any engine loom you like really there's no difference once you strip out the bits you don't need. Ok now you will need to either remove the engine loom from your own car, or find another engine loom with the same fusebox plugs on to use as your base.
The T14a plug is found tucked next to the battery clipped to the chassis, its pretty well buried! Cut out as much length on the wires as you can, it will make it easier to fit later. It is also used on the headlight looms on both sides of the MK4 as well as many other VAG motors. In early cars the T10a plug is located in the plastic loom channel on the passenger side chassis leg. You could just splice the T10/14a wires direct to your engine loom if you prefer From now on I shall refer to this plug as T10a or T14a as this is how it is labelled in the VW wiring diagrams. They carry the same signals however the pinout is slightly different but I will cover this later. Early MK4 looms use a 10 pin plug, later looms use a 14 pin. All you really need from the donor MK4 are both halves of the ECU loom, then to make the loom my way you will also need a 10 or 14 pin plug cut out of a donor MK4 so the 2nd half of the ECU loom can simply plug in. The early looms have a couple wires switched over but apart from that they are the same as the later type, they have a green plug rather than white so easy to identify.
#Brake light switch wiring harness how to
The DBW pedal makes no real difference on its own as that is wired straight to the ECU anyway, so requires no thought apart from how to fit it to the car.Īlso for the section with the coloured plugs you have early and late type, though the early ones were only made for a year or so. You have 2 main types of loom in a MK4, DBW and non DBW or I suppose you could break it down to those with an ECU relay and those without really. The process for all the MK4 looms I have seen so far is basically the same, just a few tweaks required depending on the age and type.
My aim with this thread is to cover as many MK4 conversions as possible rather than AUM/AUQ specifically, and also cover the splicing of them into both CE1 and CE2 fuseboxes. If in doubt check the various wiring diagrams in the link in my signature Also if you have a diesel engine make sure you read all the diesel notes carefully as there are a few pins which differ vs the petrol looms. The colours in this guide are based on an AUM/AUQ loom, AGU for example can differ here and there. Not all MK4/SEAT/Audi looms use the same wire colours but 99% of the time the pin locations are the same. Just an important note to start with don't go by wire colours in this guide, rather check the pin locations.
How do all! Finally decided to write a new OEM guide containing everything I have learnt over the last couple of years making looms and trawling diagrams! Many thanks to 20v_Jimmy who created the original 20v OEM guide thread here:
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